So, I have been surfing for about 3 months now. Which of course means I’m still really crap. But over that time it seems I have already surfed nice beach breaks in Costa Rica (where I did a one week surf school in July), reef breaks in Hawaii, some nice beach rollers in Linda Mar (down the road from my apartment in San Francisco, California), and a bit of fumbling around on various beaches in New Zealand.
And of course, today I discovered that one of the best point breaks in the world is just north of the Hokianga at Shipwreck Bay, otherwise known as ‘shippies’. A modest day today out there. A 3m swell today created these lovely lines… I think there were about a dozen people surfing…
I drove my car onto the beach and waxed up my new Walden 9ft 6 longboard…an amazing board…
It was an awesome day! Going out again tomorrow!
